The Domestic Goddess shows her love for all things Italian in a new TV show and a cookbook.
When she was in her mid to late teens, British cookbook author Nigella Lawson wanted to be Italian.
She says she cannot explain why exactly, but before going to Oxford University to read medieval and modern languages, and having already studied Latin, French and German, she felt she needed to learn Italian. So, she took a year off and headed to Florence.
She had told the university that she intended to study at the British Institute in the Italian city, but ended up working instead.
In an e-mail interview, Lawson says: “I needed to pay for the trip and my upkeep there and was ready to take on any job so long as it didn’t include cleaning lavatories.
“But the job I got there was as a chambermaid, which very much did include cleaning lavatories!”
Her year there, however, was formative.
Lawson, 53, one of four children of former Chancellor of the Exchequer Nigel Lawson and Vanessa Salmon, adds: “I had been a reserved, shy person as a child and teenager in England. In Italy, I became more open and less reserved.
“This was because I was away from home; partly it was because the Italian character invites relaxed, unforced openness; partly, it was because often one can free oneself by speaking in a new language.
“All these ‘partly’ reasons added up to a sense of deep love for Italy and when I cook Italian food, even if it is my version of Italian food, I feel linked in to that connection in an enduring way that colours my whole life.”
It has all also resulted in a new cookbook and TV series, both called Nigellissima. Pastas, main dishes that include Pork Loin With Parma Ham & Oregano and desserts such as No-Churn Chestnut Ice Cream encourage readers and viewers to put Italian accents on their food.
Both cookbook and TV series have been controversial.
Italians have said that the recipes are not authentic and she has been criticised for including calorific desserts in the book, including one for a Chocolate Hazelnut Cheesecake which has about 7,000 calories.
She says: “I want the viewers to watch a programme and be inspired to cook, and see how easy it is to create beautiful dishes without stress and complicated or lengthy procedures.
“It’s not about authentic recipes from a historical or traditional perspective, but about being inspired to bring a little Italian touch or flair to everyday cooking and entertaining.”
She does say, however, that her cheesecake is “most decidedly fattening”.
“But I make it about four times a year and eat one slice each time,” she adds. “That doesn’t seem over the top to me. I think you could look in my book and series for ‘naughty’ recipes and find them, but you can also see that Nigellissima is full of recipes that are butter-free and relatively low fat. I can’t control how much of each recipe my readers or viewers choose to eat or dwell on.”
She does not answer questions about her weight loss, which caused a stir when photos of her looking svelte appeared in the British media last year.
It emerged that surgery to remove bunions was what triggered the weight loss – she was unable to get to the fridge and even when she was recovering, she felt she needed to be hungry to make the trek to the kitchen.
Asked how she stays slim despite all the cooking and eating, she says: “I don’t have any secrets and nor do I stay slim. Like many women, my weight goes up and down.
“But I do have rules – I eat proper meals and don’t go in for round-the-clock grazing, though I sometimes break that rule at night when I need a little snack to keep me going. I do exercise regularly. I never used to, but I know I can’t diet so I have to exercise. It’s a necessary trade off, and actually, it feels good.”
Lawson, who is married to art collector Charles Saatchi, 69, and has two teenage children with her first husband, the late journalist John Diamond, now has nine books under her belt.
Asked what has made her successful, she says: “Well, I am just a home cook and I feel that I cook in much the same way and under the same conditions as my readers and viewers. I don’t have the skills, experience or staff that proper restaurant chefs have and so write my recipes accordingly.
“For me, a recipe has to be doable, without stress, for a home cook in a domestic kitchen. But this isn’t a marketing policy - it simply reflects how I cook myself.”
As for what is next, she says: “I have never planned in my life, and cannot start now, so who knows?” – The Straits Times, Singapore/Asia News Network
Nigellissima premieres tomorrow, May 15, at 8pm on BBC Lifestyle (Hypp TV Ch 620).
Related Stories:
Win The Good Food Cook Book!